Spoons & more for sale

nov spoons blog post photo

There’s a new page of spoons for sale tonight, the usual arrangement – leave a comment if you see a spoon you’d like and we’ll take it from there. Here’s the link, and it’s also found on the header of the blog’s front page.


I also added a carved framed panel for sale. This is something I have often thought of offering, after getting enough requests for them, I decided to give it a try.

frame & panel sunflower

Finally, I have two more carved bookstands ready to send out, but if anyone would like to order one of these, send me an email. They are $225 shipped in US. Here’s what they generally look like, although the carving is usually not the same twice…

carved bookstand
carved bookstand

3 thoughts on “Spoons & more for sale

  1. Peter, I have a question about carving lilac. I just cut a large bush down but whenever I try to carve with it it seems to split down the middle as fast as I can whittle it. I am definitely cutting the the blanks on either side of the pith. Maybe it’s just my tree but if you have any thoughts I would appreciate it. I live in Montana where good spoon wood is a little hard to come by thanks for the blog.


  2. Hi Chris, hope you don’t mind me butting in but maybe I can help. I know nothing about Lilac and I’ll repeat some stuff you probably already know. First up you understand that wood shrinks differently in it’s three dimensions and I’m sure Peter’s covered it somewhere. Along the length of the stem almost not at all; from the centre to the bark (radially) quite a bit and around the circumference (tangential) quite a bit more. This difference is what causes the checking (splits along the radial plane). Some woods are bad for this and some forgiving, where Lilac sits I haven’t the foggiest. However speed of drying is important and the tight corewood can also have an effect. In thin sections of wood the wood is able to warp rather than split if the drying is not too fast. If the ends are drying faster than inside, the checking is almost unavoidable, seal the end grain, acrylic paint, wax, anything to slow the drying on the ends.
    You’re in Montana, I guess the air is very dry, as it is here in Canterbury, NZ at times. You may need to choose when and where you work to minimise drying and do a bit more than Peter’s wrap in a rag. Try getting rid of the thickest parts as quick as possible; leaving some spare beyond the tip of the spoon; getting the rough hollowing out of the way fast and using as little core wood as you can get away with at least in the wide parts i.e. the bowl.
    For storage between working, the old method of burial in shavings works well, I’ve tried a plastic bag of shavings and got mould but a box lined with plastic and filled with shavings seems OK, then a move to a more ventilated situation for final drying.
    To qoute Roy Underhill “calibrate your senses”, if you can feel it is drying too fast do something to slow that down or put it away so the moisture can stabilise through the wood.
    Good luck

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