Many years ago, I used to make American style Windsor chairs. With softwood seats, it was easy enough to carve my initials in the underside of the seat to mark the chairs. For hardwood work, I never was very good at carving letters in small sizes.
Alexander has a wonderful name stamp with the J and A joined at the hip. Makes for a small, distinct impression. It’s quite nice.
For many years I have tried to come up with some catchy pairing of my initials PF and made a few feeble attempts to design something. Always dumped that project.
Like many folks that troll through RoyUnderhill’s place, the Woodwright’s School, I had the great pleasure of meeting Peter Ross while I was there. http://peterrossblacksmith.com/
We spent a lot of time comparing notes & wounds from working in living history museums, and talked a lot about our crafts. Peter showed me some name stamps he’d been working on, he teaches a class through Roy’s school in making name stamps. http://www.woodwrightschool.com/name-stamps-w-peter-ross/
I took the easy way out & bought one instead. It arrived last week. “Follansbee” takes some effort to strike, but it will work out fine. It works very nicely on the maple in this plane, but I wiggled when I hit it…
So now I can actually mark my stuff, after all these years of anonymous woodwork.
PETER FOLLANSBEE: JOINER’S NOTES 
Now you’re a pro!
About once every 11 blue moons, I make something worth marking. From time to time I use a distinctive ‘E’ and have thought about carving one in the end of a carriage bolt. Alas…
So….. was “the easy way” buying one from Peter Ross (no order forms on his site), or from someone else?
Bob – sorry I wasn’t more clear. yes, I bought one from Peter. I gather that his website is under construction, so just email him. I find his work is excellent, and his prices are well within reason. I strongly recommend his work – he’s among the best…
Looks great! My lovely wife had a set of stamps made for me for our 10 year anniversary. I got a large one with “BADGER” and a smaller type one with “BADGER WOODWORKS” done on it.
I immediately stamped everything with in reach. :)
Looks great Peter.
I had to start doing that with my armour reproductions once I was starting to reach a wider audience. .
Ya know, you could ask your former customers if you could stamp the work….I dont know if its worth it to you, but Im sure some would be willing to let you stamp it in some inconspicuous place.
As a former customer, I would love for you to stamp some of the pieces I have. Anytime…..
Folks!
Is the oak in the picture of my JA stamp, red or white? Nathaniel Krause just straightened me out.
Jennie
Red … but the closer you get to the ‘Boat Yard’ the Whiter it will get.
Joe
Larry says:
Per Hoadley, earlywood in red oak can be up to 4 pores in width, in white oak 3 pores in width. I can count only up to 3 pores in the chair leg. Plus, the light areas in the latewood look more like white oak than red, again using Hoadley’s tree identification pictures. So I vote for white oak, but can’t rule out red without further magnification.
Larry Barrett
Joe; The question as to the wood in the stamped post is still open. Would you tell us your reason for your position?Thos exciting query will remain open until the cows come home.
Jennie
Jennie,
Been away for awhile. I think it is Red Oak because I don’t see the pores of the Oak shown with blocked membranes in them (A 10X glass would help). This a sure-fire way of identifying white oak over red oak. White Oak have blocked pores ..Thus why Boatyards want only White Oak.
Joe