
flatsawn red oak
The other day I bought this piece of wood at one of the large “home-improvement” stores. This piece of kiln-dried red oak is 1/2″ x 6″ x 24″ – thus one board foot. Price, about $7. I actually paid less than that, because there was no sticker on it, and the cashier couldn’t find the price. So it was about $4.50. From my standpoint, this piece of wood is about as bad as it gets, the only way it could be worse is if it had a knot in it.
I bought it to compare with the red oak I use every day, the radially-riven stuff, from a freshly-split log. Here’s three boards, one of mine, then a quartersawn red oak and finally this tangential-sawn, or flatsawn board.

riven, quartersawn, and flatsawn red oak
to understand them better, let’s look at the end grain. Hopefully this picture is big enough to see the growth rings in the first two boards from the left, (running horizontally in the photo, across the thickness of these boards) and the medullary rays running perpendicular to the growth rings:

riven, quartersawn, flatsawn red oak
The riven board has its rays running almost right on the faces of the board. The quartersawn board has its rays running close to the faces, at times running out of the faces. The flatsawn board mostly has its growth rings running parallel to the faces of the board. The most stable of these 3 is the riven board, and in additon, it’s the easiest to work with…there is little or no disturbance in its fibers, thus easy to plane, carve, etc. Below is a detail of the riven and the quartersawn boards. When I work the riven stuff, people often say “Oh, it’s like quartersawn stock…” and my standard reply is that this is what quartersawn wood wishes it was… Notice that the rays in the quartersawn board are running at an angle to the faces of the board. It’s not a bad piece of oak, it’s just not the best.

riven and quartersawn

(l) slow growth, (r) fast growth red oak
Here are the faces of these two boards:

(l) fast grown (r) slow grown red oak
The fast one was too much trouble, I threw it in the firewood pile.
I just checked a local hardwood dealer’s website, and they have quartersawn white oak on sale for $7.50 per board foot. When I buy the log, I pay about $1 to $1.50 per board foot. I am sure once I have all my labor in it to rive and plane it into boards the cost become quite high. No mind, I get all the wonderful work of riving and planing that stuff, and the stock I get can’t be beat.

driving a wooden wedge

sixteenths red oak
October 18, 2009 at 9:08 pm
Great post, Pete. Don’t you need a lot of storage room for rived wood? How do you rive long boards from a log?
Cheers — Larry
October 18, 2009 at 11:39 pm
Peter,
You say the stock you get can’t be beat and in the next photo you are beating on it??? Great informative post, sorry for the weak humor.
Mike
October 19, 2009 at 10:59 am
Excellent, Peter. Thanks for the detailed explanation. (haha@Mike!)
October 19, 2009 at 5:51 pm
This was really interesting. I am new to hobby woodworking and just leraned the difference between quartersawn and flat sawn, and now I find this! Great post. I have not been to plymouth plantation since I was a kid. I used to spend summers at my aunts and uncles in buzzards bay and am from NY. I now live in MN, there is lots of great lumber here!
October 19, 2009 at 9:17 pm
Peter: Thanks for your discussion of the virtues of radially rived oak! It is such a wonderful wood to work that I have never since had the desire to work any other wood. Oh yes, getting the log, busting it up and riving on the ray plane are not at first for the weak of heart. However the heart grows stronger as the rived wood appears.Your photographs were clear and very explanatory. I suggest that anyone take a a piece of straight grained oak firewood and using whatever tools are at hand bust out a triangular piece with ray planes on both sides!
Jennie
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October 20, 2009 at 5:32 am
Dear Peter
Thank you so much for such an interesting and informative post. These things must take a lot of your time, but rest assured, posts like this are real gems to learners like myself.
Thank you once again and the photos are fantastic.
October 21, 2009 at 9:32 pm
Peter:
I read this article today and the problem is I am only trying to think how I would use the kiln dry flatsawn board. JA has taught me well, because I am only seeing the lowest quality shop tasks and/or pegs from that board. I have been blessed to come to know riven oak so early in life. The wood is predictable, beautiful, and wonderful to work. Thank you for writing on the topic. Back I go to the drawing board to think of ways to use that sawn board.
Nathaniel
December 24, 2010 at 9:30 am
[...] speeds that up. The Red Oak wont change much just get richer. I oriented the Oak spindles so the ray plane is facing out, a shiny detail that only the wood can give [...]
March 3, 2011 at 9:12 am
Short, sweet and on target. Early shovels were made of riven wood before metal was used. Wooden picks were needed to break the soil first. Your site explained the term “riven” to me.
November 4, 2011 at 9:17 am
How do you dry the wood once it is split, air or kiln?
November 8, 2011 at 11:33 am
I await the opertunity to do some of this work myself! I’m interested to see how it performs under the plane because the kiln dried stuff i have now, though really nice..is a p.i.t.a. to plane.
November 8, 2011 at 11:36 am
Sorry, i forgot something… How do you get it from the pie shape to a board shape? draw-shave? bandsaw? If its drawshaving then it seems like a WHOLE LOTTA work that most wont appreciate
January 29, 2012 at 9:16 am
[...] If you read some of my earlier posts, especially the one on the wine sideboard, you know its not that I have a great fondness for red oak either, though to be fair, the last I worked with it, it was kiln-dried, plain sawn. Even for those who don’t like oak, there is something alluring about the look of quartersawn oak, with the flecks of medullary ray. Want to know more about qualities of riven (split) oak, guess what: Peter wrote about that too. [...]